• Shepherdstown, West Virginia

    Shepherdstown, West Virginia is one of the most charming small towns I have visited to date. Like my experience in McKinney, Texas, I felt at home in a place I never knew I missed. Shepherdstown is unique in that many elements of the town—such as the architecture, the tight-knit community, and the slow-paced lifestyle—take you back to the past. I even noticed some vintage cars lining the street as townsfolk strolled by puffing on their cigarettes. At the same time, the town has a hippy, progressive culture. Many of the businesses have pride flags and LGBTQ friendly signs; a majority seemed to be women-owned. And you have the students from Shepherd University, a liberal arts institution, that bring with them their own forward-thinking perspectives.

    history

    Aside from looking like a painting with its whimsical storefronts, quaint homes, and colorful fall foliage, Shepherdstown also has a rich historic past. The geographic location of the town has been a site of activity as early as 1734. It was officially named Shepherd’s Town in 1798 to honor its founder, Thomas Shepherd. Many firsts for West Virginia took place in Shepherdstown, including the state’s first newspaper publication and post office.

    Shepherdstown is known to have been occupied by both Union and Confederate troops during the Civil War. In September 1862, the Battle of Antietam took place across the Potomac, about 4 miles west of Shepherdstown. While the Union claimed a victory here, it was the deadliest single-day battle in US history, with approximately 22,717 casualties. Many believe that this painful moment in history has contributed Shepherdstown’s reputation for being extremely haunted. If you’re interested in that side of things, check out Ghosts of Shepherdstown on Amazon Prime (I must admit, this is what piqued my interest to visit in the first place).

    Shepherdstown’s main street (German Street) is lined with beautiful historic buildings repurposed into eclectic coffee and tea shops, cozy restaurants, art galleries, inns, museums, and retail stores for all interests. There are also several churches, a university, a public library, and even a town hall and police department. Fun fact: the Shepherdstown Chief of Police, Mike King, appeared on the Amazon Prime show, Ghosts of Shepherdstown. You really have everything you need within just a few steps in Shepherdstown!

    historical buildings

    Shepherd University

    Shepherd University sits in the center of Shepherdstown and is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. Standing out as a landmark on German Street with its tall, ivory Corinthian columns and impressive clock tower is Shepherd University’s McMurran Hall.  It even has a little brook running in front of it, which makes it look even more picturesque.

    The Shepherdstown Public Library

    The Shepherdstown Public Library was built in 1800 and has had a dynamic past. It served as a market for farmers, the Shepherdstown Fire Department, town council offices, a schoolhouse, a butcher shop, and even a jail. It began its transition into a public library in 1922! I did not get to go in the library since it is closed on Sundays, but I certainly plan to visit when I go back.

    Trinity Episcopal Church

    I had to point out this church simply because of its beautiful Gothic Revival exterior. A plaque outside the church explains that the church was established in 1745/1747 and has a brick in it that was taken from the first Episcopal Church in Jamestown, Virginia. During the Civil War, both Union and Confederate soldiers attended service here. They still hold holy communion at 8AM and 10AM on Sundays.

    Register Building – 1894

    I could not find much on the Register Building other than when it was built. This building is a stunning work of architecture that has been repurposed into modern day apartments. There is also retail space on the first floor, including a cute little wine shop, Grapes & Grains Gourmet.

    Mecklenburg Inn

    This place looked super cozy but I did not get a chance to go in. The Mecklenburg Inn is a teensy bed and breakfast with a total of three units! On the first floor is a pub where it seems the locals like to hang out. The building has more or less remained untouched since it was built around the late 1700’s when George Washington was President. The Mecklenburg Inn has good reviews on Trip Advisor if you are interested in scoring a room!

    FOOD

    I spent the next day after my visit feeling sick from all the (delicious) food I ate in Shepherdstown. There were so many options, I couldn’t just pick one.

    Shepherdstown Sweet Shop & Bakery

    First, I had to visit Shepherdstown Sweet Shop & Bakery for coffee and a cheese danish and they did not disappoint. You can stop in at this homey bakery to grab pastries, muffins, artisanal bread, sandwiches, and even locally made honey, jam, and syrup.  The shop itself sits on the first floor of a 200-year-old building. It is light and airy, with huge storefront windows opening to face Shepherd University’s McMurran Hall. The Shepherdstown Sweet Shop & Bakery was a primary feature in the Ghosts of Shepherdstown series, but to my dismay I didn’t see any ghosts during my visit.

    Mountaineer Popcorn Company

    If I am ever in a town that has either a popcorn shop or a candy store (or both) I go in. Mountaineer Popcorn Company is just a few doors down from the Sweet Shop. It is a small shop that packs in a LOT of popcorn. They had popcorn flavors ranging from classic movie theater butter style to birthday cake. You could buy 2 cups or 80 cups depending on your needs. I got a sizeable bag of the classic stuff and wrecked its salty, buttery deliciousness in one go.

    Lilah

    My third and final food stop was dinner at Lilah. Its neon green storefront and funky lights caught my eye as soon as I drove into the town. I got a perfect seat right up front in the bay window cove facing out to the street and it was here that I felt a sense of serenity I haven’t felt in a while. I sipped my Arnold Palmer and took in my surroundings. A couple chatted at the bar; a group of friends giggled at a table nearby. One patron had a dog with a pink sweater that matched its pink-dyed tail. The bright paintings on the walls matched the overall cheery vibe of the restaurant. I was pleased to see that restaurant was both vegetarian and vegan friendly. I ordered a Beyond Burger with french fries and caught up on my book, Gothic Tales by Elizabeth Gaskell.

    Tonic Therapeutic Herbs Shop & Elixir Bar

    I did not go into Tonic Therapeutic Herbs Shop & Elixir Bar, but thought it worth mentioning for a future visit. It serves as another great example of Shepherdstown’s rich homeopathic, all-natural health and wellness culture. At this shop, you can get bulk herbs, muffins, superfood bars, tonic teas, flower teas, cocoa, and health shots (like wheatgrass shots but way more creative).

    SHOPPING

    Meditative Medicinals

    The very first shop I went into in Shepherdstown was Meditative Medicinals. I was greeted by the lovely owner, Samantha Savoca and her floofy dog! Samantha gave me a rundown of the products in her shop and proved to be very knowledgeable and passionate about the physical and mental health benefits of CBD. I am not very familiar with CBD or hemp products in general, so Samantha was very helpful. I browsed around the shop took in the wide spectrum of oils, teas, gummies, sweet treats, salves, bath products, and much more. The shop was decorated beautifully, with crisp white walls, wood floors, plenty of plants and greenery, Hindu statues, arabesque rugs, and chakra tapestries on the walls. I felt right at home. I purchased some detox tea, CBD gummies, and some “Blue Moon Milk”, which is a calming bedtime elixir made with superfoods

    On the Wings of Dreams

    My favorite shop was On the Wings of Dreams. They provide gifts and tools curated to help guide you on your “journey to Spirit”, which is exactly what I need in my life right now. I have strayed from the path, so I need to get back on the path.

    They have crystals, botanical incense, essential oils, jewelry, books and tarot cards, ceremonial herbs, prayer feathers, and much more. I even purchased a “cauldron splash” concoction made by Enchanted Botanicals (you can sprinkle it on your spell papers and incense for a little pizazz and manifesting energy when burning them). Like many of the shops in Shepherdstown, On the Wings of Dreams has a lot of locally sourced products (Enchanted Botanicals is based on out Lovettsville, Virginia), which I found to be refreshing.

    Admiral Analog’s

    Right next to On the Wings of Dreams is Admiral Analog’s. This vintage record store made me feel like I was on the set of Pretty in Pink. I was just waiting for Iona to come out from the back with her spikey hair and punk-glam get-up to give me advice about love and relationships. I’m not a connoisseur of music by any means, but they did seem to have a wide spectrum of vinyl records ranging from Johnny Cash to Prince to Motorhead and beyond.

    OTHER THINGS TO DO

    The Historic Shepherdstown Museum

    Historic Shepherdstown Museum is housed in the Entler Hotel, built in 1786 and now on the National Register for Historic Places. Though no longer an actual hotel that hosts guests overnight, the Entler Hotel is a venue for weddings, art exhibits, and other special events. I was not able to go into the museum since their hours are limited to 12 – 4pm on Saturdays. However, the museum is active in the community and hosts speaker series and Q&A sessions in May, June, and October.

    Kimo Pics Photo Gallery

    Kimo Pics Photo Gallery is owned by J. Kimo Williams. Mr. Williams is a talented photographer that decided to pursue his creative dream after retiring as a teacher and moving with his wife from Chicago to Shepherdstown to be closer to his daughter. His photo subjects range from the West Virginia mountains and forests to the streets of DC. His work has been featured in National Geographic Magazine. Mr. Williams was the kindest person I met in Shepherdstown, and I plan to visit his gallery again when I go back to visit!

  • Visit Salem, MA

    In the spirit of Halloween,  I thought it would be appropriate to share my Salem, Massachusetts experience. Salem, Massachusetts is the world renown “witch city” and has been since early 1692: it all began with Tituba. Her story is one of injustice, mysticism, and mystery. In the summer of 1692, nineteen innocent men and women (and two dogs) were executed at what is now believed to have been Proctor’s Ledge after being accused of witchcraft. Ever since I saw Hocus Pocus back in the early ‘90s, I have been fascinated with the idea of witches and witchcraft. I have yearned for the day I would be able to take a solo trip up to Salem and unleash the Winifred, Sarah, and Mary within me.

    So I did just that in August of 2021. I tried to book a trip in October but forget it if you are booking a hotel or Airbnb anywhere within a year of Halloween. I flew into Boston and took the MBTA commuter rail up to Salem for $8. As I expected, I immediately fell in love with Salem.

    It's just a bunch of Hocus Pocus!

    The food

    Sea Level Oyster Bar

    Besides having the freshest and the most delicious oysters, the Sea Level Oyster bar had the best location in Salem. Sitting right on the edge of the water, the two-level restaurant overlooks the Salem Sound and the hundreds of sailboats that are camped out there. You get a great view of the Friendship of Salem—a replica merchant ship modeled after those made post-American Revolution. You can also see the Pedrick Store House, built by a successful merchant in the pre-Revolutionary War era in 1770. In the evening at sunset, it is a spectacular sight.

    Turner’s Seafood

    Turner’s Seafood at Lyceum Hall holds both culinary and historical significance. It was my favorite restaurant to visit. I went back after trying their amazing cold lobster roll to try their even more amazing fish and chips. Turner’s is a cozy restaurant, beautifully lit by huge open windows, with brick walls, and oak flooring and a dark wood bar. Not to mention the staff were the friendliest I have met. Before it was Turner’s, the building is believed to have been the location where the first long distance phone call was made by Alexander Graham Bell in 1877. It is also believed to be a place rampant with paranormal activity.

    The Cheese Shop of Salem

    I didn’t spend much time in The Cheese Shop but thought it noteworthy to include! Prior to visiting Salem, I had never heard of the Cheese Shop and believe it could use more recognition! This adorable shop has cheese and wine from all over the world, and nice folks at the cheese counter can offer up their expertise to help you find the perfect cheese. They also have chocolates, honey, jams, and a myriad of other foods to shop for. Of all the places in Salem I visited, this shop made me wish I had brought a bigger suitcase the most.

    Maria’s Sweet Somethings

    Maria’s Sweet Somethings is located on Front Street right behind the infamous Salem Town Hall featured in the Hocus Pocus party scene where Winifred entrances the partygoers with “I Put A Spell On You”. As soon as you walk in, you are met with a beautiful site of deep purple walls, witchy decorations, and huge, gorgeous cases of truffles, fudge, and ice cream.

     

    The Tours & History

    Salem Voodoo, Vampires, and Ghosts Guided Walking Tour

    This tour made my trip extraordinary. If the rest of my Salem experience would have been awful, this would have made it worth the visit. Our tour guide was a gentleman by the name of Dr. Vitka, who was a delight. We began in front of the Salem Welcome Center and circled around the town while Dr. Vitka filled us in on Salem’s creepy history. Most memorable was his story about Giles Corey, who was accused of witchcraft and pressed to death outside of the Salem prison in 1692. The building that housed the jail across from the site of his execution is still in used today (as an office building) and is believed to be extremely haunted. Dr. Vitka himself experienced a particularly terrifying encounter when he used to work there. We ended at the Charter Street Cemetery, which was another one of my favorite places to visit in Salem. The Charter Street Cemetery is the resting place of several significant Salem residents, including Captain Richard More, a Mayflower pilgrim, and Colonel John Hathorne who was a vocal judge during the Salem witch trials and an ancestor of Nathaniel Hawthorne.

     

    House of the Seven Gables

    The House of the Seven Gables, built in 1668 and added onto thereafter, was simply beautiful. Famously known as the inspiration for Nathaniel Hawthorne’s House of the Seven Gables, visitors can now tour the house with a tour guide to see how the Hawthorne’s lived, decorated, ate, slept, and spent their free time. The house sits by the seaside overlooking the Salem Sound. It is decorated in the Georgian style, with extravagant floral wallpaper, vibrant paint, and intricate wood craftsmanship. Other than The Scarlett Letter, I have yet to read more of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s books, but it is on my to-do list to read House of the Seven Gables after visiting this house! Less famous, but equally significant and fascinating was the house right next to the House of the Seven Gables, which was Nathaniel Hawthorne’s birthplace.

    Nightmare Gallery Monster Museum

    If you like classic horror movies and cinema, please visit this museum! I thought it sounded kind of ridiculous before Dr. Vitka recommended it and I am glad I did. You will learn about all the epic horror films ranging from Dracula and Frankenstein (both made in 1931) to Nosferatu the Vampyre (1979), to the Exorcist, Carrie, and Land of the Dead. The whole thing takes about 45 minutes to get through depending on your museum reading level/attention span.

     

    Privateer Schooner Tour in Salem Sound

    This was a great way to spend two hours in the afternoon in Salem. You will take a ride on the FAME, a replica of a privateer schooner from the War of 1812, with experienced sailors who will let you help raise the sails! They also serve you wine and beer!

    Best New Age Shops

    Best Metaphysical (Witchy) Shops:

    Enchanted

    Of course, I couldn’t have gone to Salem without visiting all the magickal shops that are so abundant there. I went into every shop I could find and loved every one of them. But my favorite was Enchanted, located right next to the Sea Level Oyster Bar in “Witch City”. I didn’t realize before going in that Enchanted is the shop of Laurie Cabot, the “Official Witch of Salem”. Despite me exploring witchcraft for the past few years, I had only recently learned about Laurie Cabot while watching New England Legends on Amazon Prime (please watch this series if you have not already). Enchanted had all kinds of spell kits, candles, votives, talismans, etc. handcrafted by the famous witch herself. It was also a practical place to get your essential herbs, oils, candles, and other supplies for your practice. I felt a lot of love in that shop (and spent a lot of money)!

     

    Pyramid Books

    Pyramid Books is an unremarkable looking shop a little down the way from Enchanted. They don’t have a website, but their inventory is extensive. They had every kind of book on witchcraft, Druidry, and metaphysical theory you could imagine as well as an endless supply of candles, incense, and crystals. The shop didn’t seem like they have a lot of foot traffic on the daily, but Pyramid Books was another one of my favorite places.

    Random things to do

    I couldn’t go to Salem with my love of Hocus Pocus without seeing the Hocus Pocus House! It is exactly as pictured in the movie, and I felt a strong sense of nostalgia and comfort when I visited it. I didn’t realize that it faces out to the Salem Sound, which made it even more picturesque. It is about a mile away from the city center at 4 Ocean Avenue, and is now a private residence. You’ll get your exercise while walking to the house, but it is a great opportunity to see the non-touristy, residential parts of Salem. Beyond the witchy stores and busy restaurants are quiet, sleepy streets lined with historic buildings dating back to the 1600s.

    Salem certainly was a memorable and special place. It is rich in history and has its own unique culture. I felt like I had always been there in spirit. My four-day trip was just long enough, but I certainly plan to go back. On my next visit, I would like to go to the Hawthorne Hotel, stay at the Stepping Stone Inn, tour the Witch House and Salem Witch Museum, branch out to Marblehead, and go to the Salem Pioneer Village!

    On my next visit, I hope to hit up the Hawthorne Hotel, stay at the Stepping Stone Inn, tour through the Witch House and Salem Witch Museum, branch out to Marblehead, and go to the Salem Pioneer Village.

    White Magick Alchemy

    On the topic of magick and witchcraft, if you are a practicing witch or just a fan of witchy things, check out White Magick Alchemy. This online Old World shop is based in California and they have everything you could possibly need for your spiritual journey (more than you could ever find in a store, including custom orders). It is an absolutely gorgeous shop. The owner also has a blog: https://whitemagickalchemy.com/blog/.