Small Towns

Shepherdstown, West Virginia

Food, Lifestyle, Small Towns, Travel

Shepherdstown, West Virginia is one of the most charming small towns I have visited to date. Like my experience in McKinney, Texas, I felt at home in a place I never knew I missed. Shepherdstown is unique in that many elements of the town—such as the architecture, the tight-knit community, and the slow-paced lifestyle—take you back to the past. I even noticed some vintage cars lining the street as townsfolk strolled by puffing on their cigarettes. At the same time, the town has a hippy, progressive culture. Many of the businesses have pride flags and LGBTQ friendly signs; a majority seemed to be women-owned. And you have the students from Shepherd University, a liberal arts institution, that bring with them their own forward-thinking perspectives.

history

Aside from looking like a painting with its whimsical storefronts, quaint homes, and colorful fall foliage, Shepherdstown also has a rich historic past. The geographic location of the town has been a site of activity as early as 1734. It was officially named Shepherd’s Town in 1798 to honor its founder, Thomas Shepherd. Many firsts for West Virginia took place in Shepherdstown, including the state’s first newspaper publication and post office.

Shepherdstown is known to have been occupied by both Union and Confederate troops during the Civil War. In September 1862, the Battle of Antietam took place across the Potomac, about 4 miles west of Shepherdstown. While the Union claimed a victory here, it was the deadliest single-day battle in US history, with approximately 22,717 casualties. Many believe that this painful moment in history has contributed Shepherdstown’s reputation for being extremely haunted. If you’re interested in that side of things, check out Ghosts of Shepherdstown on Amazon Prime (I must admit, this is what piqued my interest to visit in the first place).

Shepherdstown’s main street (German Street) is lined with beautiful historic buildings repurposed into eclectic coffee and tea shops, cozy restaurants, art galleries, inns, museums, and retail stores for all interests. There are also several churches, a university, a public library, and even a town hall and police department. Fun fact: the Shepherdstown Chief of Police, Mike King, appeared on the Amazon Prime show, Ghosts of Shepherdstown. You really have everything you need within just a few steps in Shepherdstown!

historical buildings

Shepherd University

Shepherd University sits in the center of Shepherdstown and is celebrating its 150^th anniversary this year. Standing out as a landmark on German Street with its tall, ivory Corinthian columns and impressive clock tower is Shepherd University’s McMurran Hall. It even has a little brook running in front of it, which makes it look even more picturesque.

The Shepherdstown Public Library

The Shepherdstown Public Library was built in 1800 and has had a dynamic past. It served as a market for farmers, the Shepherdstown Fire Department, town council offices, a schoolhouse, a butcher shop, and even a jail. It began its transition into a public library in 1922! I did not get to go in the library since it is closed on Sundays, but I certainly plan to visit when I go back.

Trinity Episcopal Church

I had to point out this church simply because of its beautiful Gothic Revival exterior. A plaque outside the church explains that the church was established in 1745/1747 and has a brick in it that was taken from the first Episcopal Church in Jamestown, Virginia. During the Civil War, both Union and Confederate soldiers attended service here. They still hold holy communion at 8AM and 10AM on Sundays.

Register Building – 1894

I could not find much on the Register Building other than when it was built. This building is a stunning work of architecture that has been repurposed into modern day apartments. There is also retail space on the first floor, including a cute little wine shop, Grapes & Grains Gourmet.

Mecklenburg Inn

This place looked super cozy but I did not get a chance to go in. The Mecklenburg Inn is a teensy bed and breakfast with a total of three units! On the first floor is a pub where it seems the locals like to hang out. The building has more or less remained untouched since it was built around the late 1700’s when George Washington was President. The Mecklenburg Inn has good reviews on Trip Advisor if you are interested in scoring a room!

FOOD

I spent the next day after my visit feeling sick from all the (delicious) food I ate in Shepherdstown. There were so many options, I couldn’t just pick one.

Shepherdstown Sweet Shop & Bakery

First, I had to visit Shepherdstown Sweet Shop & Bakery for coffee and a cheese danish and they did not disappoint. You can stop in at this homey bakery to grab pastries, muffins, artisanal bread, sandwiches, and even locally made honey, jam, and syrup. The shop itself sits on the first floor of a 200-year-old building. It is light and airy, with huge storefront windows opening to face Shepherd University’s McMurran Hall. The Shepherdstown Sweet Shop & Bakery was a primary feature in the Ghosts of Shepherdstown series, but to my dismay I didn’t see any ghosts during my visit.

Mountaineer Popcorn Company

If I am ever in a town that has either a popcorn shop or a candy store (or both) I go in. Mountaineer Popcorn Company is just a few doors down from the Sweet Shop. It is a small shop that packs in a LOT of popcorn. They had popcorn flavors ranging from classic movie theater butter style to birthday cake. You could buy 2 cups or 80 cups depending on your needs. I got a sizeable bag of the classic stuff and wrecked its salty, buttery deliciousness in one go.

Lilah

My third and final food stop was dinner at Lilah. Its neon green storefront and funky lights caught my eye as soon as I drove into the town. I got a perfect seat right up front in the bay window cove facing out to the street and it was here that I felt a sense of serenity I haven’t felt in a while. I sipped my Arnold Palmer and took in my surroundings. A couple chatted at the bar; a group of friends giggled at a table nearby. One patron had a dog with a pink sweater that matched its pink-dyed tail. The bright paintings on the walls matched the overall cheery vibe of the restaurant. I was pleased to see that restaurant was both vegetarian and vegan friendly. I ordered a Beyond Burger with french fries and caught up on my book, Gothic Tales by Elizabeth Gaskell.

Tonic Therapeutic Herbs Shop & Elixir Bar

I did not go into Tonic Therapeutic Herbs Shop & Elixir Bar, but thought it worth mentioning for a future visit. It serves as another great example of Shepherdstown’s rich homeopathic, all-natural health and wellness culture. At this shop, you can get bulk herbs, muffins, superfood bars, tonic teas, flower teas, cocoa, and health shots (like wheatgrass shots but way more creative).

SHOPPING

Meditative Medicinals

The very first shop I went into in Shepherdstown was Meditative Medicinals. I was greeted by the lovely owner, Samantha Savoca and her floofy dog! Samantha gave me a rundown of the products in her shop and proved to be very knowledgeable and passionate about the physical and mental health benefits of CBD. I am not very familiar with CBD or hemp products in general, so Samantha was very helpful. I browsed around the shop took in the wide spectrum of oils, teas, gummies, sweet treats, salves, bath products, and much more. The shop was decorated beautifully, with crisp white walls, wood floors, plenty of plants and greenery, Hindu statues, arabesque rugs, and chakra tapestries on the walls. I felt right at home. I purchased some detox tea, CBD gummies, and some “Blue Moon Milk”, which is a calming bedtime elixir made with superfoods

On the Wings of Dreams

My favorite shop was On the Wings of Dreams. They provide gifts and tools curated to help guide you on your “journey to Spirit”, which is exactly what I need in my life right now. I have strayed from the path, so I need to get back on the path.

They have crystals, botanical incense, essential oils, jewelry, books and tarot cards, ceremonial herbs, prayer feathers, and much more. I even purchased a “cauldron splash” concoction made by Enchanted Botanicals (you can sprinkle it on your spell papers and incense for a little pizazz and manifesting energy when burning them). Like many of the shops in Shepherdstown, On the Wings of Dreams has a lot of locally sourced products (Enchanted Botanicals is based on out Lovettsville, Virginia), which I found to be refreshing.

Admiral Analog’s

Right next to On the Wings of Dreams is Admiral Analog’s. This vintage record store made me feel like I was on the set of Pretty in Pink. I was just waiting for Iona to come out from the back with her spikey hair and punk-glam get-up to give me advice about love and relationships. I’m not a connoisseur of music by any means, but they did seem to have a wide spectrum of vinyl records ranging from Johnny Cash to Prince to Motorhead and beyond.

OTHER THINGS TO DO

The Historic Shepherdstown Museum

Historic Shepherdstown Museum is housed in the Entler Hotel, built in 1786 and now on the National Register for Historic Places. Though no longer an actual hotel that hosts guests overnight, the Entler Hotel is a venue for weddings, art exhibits, and other special events. I was not able to go into the museum since their hours are limited to 12 – 4pm on Saturdays. However, the museum is active in the community and hosts speaker series and Q&A sessions in May, June, and October.

Kimo Pics Photo Gallery

Kimo Pics Photo Gallery is owned by J. Kimo Williams. Mr. Williams is a talented photographer that decided to pursue his creative dream after retiring as a teacher and moving with his wife from Chicago to Shepherdstown to be closer to his daughter. His photo subjects range from the West Virginia mountains and forests to the streets of DC. His work has been featured in National Geographic Magazine. Mr. Williams was the kindest person I met in Shepherdstown, and I plan to visit his gallery again when I go back to visit!

Where do you go when you don’t know where home is?

Small Towns, Spiritual Journey

I consider myself an east coast girl based on where I was born. And for the time I lived in North Carolina, I fell in love with its abundant forests and foliage. There’s something about the east that has always called me back to it. So, when I was able to begin settling down in Washington, DC after three internships at the Smithsonian and finally landing a full-time job, I thought I would be able to establish a new “home” for myself. I no longer had to work 7 days a week as both an intern and a restaurant hostess. I had ended a toxic relationship and I could finally spend my weekends making new friends and exploring the DC/Maryland/Virginia (DMV) metroplex. But the pandemic had other plans.

Like many people in the world, COVID-19 upended everything I had planned for and looked forward to. In January 2020, I was living in my first apartment by myself: a 372 square-foot studio apartment near Logan Circle, about a 15-minute walk from the White House. The first two and a half months were promising. I was finally living in my own space (albeit a tiny space). I was in the heart of the city, steps away from the most renowned museums, historic sites, and restaurants in America. But by mid-March, the city froze – and then it died.

People we no longer commuting to their offices in the city. Instead of lunch breaks with their coworkers, it was homemade sandwiches alone in their makeshift home offices. Instead of happy hours after work, people commuted from their desk to their couch to follow the latest updates on the virus’s desolation.

After 9 months of living alone in complete isolation—including a COVID-induced trip to the ER by myself, sleepless nights listening to the flash bangs and protests outside my window after George Floyd’s death and watching as they boarded up shop windows in anticipation of the November election—I needed my mom and dad, my brother and sister-in-law, and my baby niece and nephew. Fortunate to have kept my job and been able to work remotely, and with a lease about to expire, I was able to move in with my parents in Texas. Two days before the November 3^rd election, my parents came to help me move in with them.

A week later, I was settled in with my parents in Prosper, Texas, about 45 minutes away from where I grew up. When I moved from Austin, Texas to North Carolina to complete graduate school in 2017, I promised I would never move back to Texas. I had spent half my life there. I was ready to finally create adventures in an entirely new place. It felt surreal, like I had travelled back in time and gotten stuck somewhere along the way in an alternate reality or parallel universe. I was in three-dimensional purgatory.

By May of 2021, I had been up and down mentally and was the lowest I had been since college. I was 28 years old, living with my parents, single after an unfortunate attempt with dating apps, juggling financial debt compounded by student loans, and trying to figure out what I wanted in life.

I couldn’t remember the last time I felt guidance, direction, or familiarity. I hadn’t felt at home; I felt lost within myself.

But then I found McKinney. I had visited a few times before and always felt a connection. And in my broken state of mind, going to McKinney was like stepping back to a time and place I never knew I missed until that moment. Historic McKinney in Texas (est. 1848) is like a cross between Stars Hollow and Pleasantville. Though it doesn’t have a gazebo, it does have a charming courthouse/performing arts center right in the heart of the square. Remnants of the town’s past are still carefully preserved in the storefront facades. The old Smith Drug Co. that had been around from c. 1900 to 2009 is now a Goodies gift shop, but the painted bright white letters of the old pharmacy’s name still stand out against the red brick.

The sandstone Corinthian columns and ornate entablature of the original First National Bank building built in the classical revival style c. 1910-1915 provide a striking contrast from the square’s surrounding, red-bricked buildings. Today, the bank is a home décor shop called The Gallery.

There are all kinds of boutiques, wineries, restaurants, antique shops, galleries, hair salons, etc. in McKinney square. There’s even a comic book store and an arcade. Some of my favorite places include:

Mom and Popcorn Shop – When I wanted to be a child again, I got popcorn and old-fashioned candy here.
The Menagerie – If I felt like playing pretend, I went to this little antique shop and imagined I lived in a fancy house with mahogany furniture and pretty sculptures. I bought my beloved head bust of Diana there.
Groovy Co-Op – When I needed some guidance and just a bit of fun, I met with the psychic in this eclectic vintage store with everything from 50’s TV sets to incense and New Age spell books.
Pantry Restaurant – I reminisced about better times while eating strawberry ice-cream at this cozy home-style restaurant, with gingham tablecloths and board games. The tall, redheaded man who worked there was always smiling and always kind.
4R Ranch Vineyards and Winery – When I just wanted to read a book by myself and numb out the world, I hid out here and enjoyed a flight of Texas reds.

All these places, with their unique charm and familiarity, welcomed me home. These places gave me moments of peace, and—while fleeting—hope.

It was in historic McKinney that I realized a solution to my problem of feeling lost. If I love McKinney so dearly, I could write about it. And better yet, I could make an adventure out of exploring more towns like it! Quaint, nostalgic oases in a world where nothing is certain and nothing is saved from change. I am now living in Old Town Alexandria, Virginia and I am settling into my new home. My cats, Bubbles and Meatloaf seem to be liking it. And while the last few months have been an adjustment, I can’t wait to explore and grow and heal.

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